Cook’s Illustrated describes taco al pastor as “Tacos al pastor, or ‘shepard-style’ tacos, are a Mexican taqueria classic made from thin slices of chile-marinated pork that’s been tightly packed onto a vertical spit with layers of pork fat and then roasted. The cone-shaped stack is often topped with a whole pineapple whose tangy, sweet juices trickle down, encouraging the meat to caramelize as it turns, When the exterior is browned and crisp, then shavings of the roasted pork and pineapple are carved off directly onto a warm tortilla and then topped with garnishes that contrast the rich meat; minced raw onion, cilantro, and a squeeze of fresh lime.”
Middle Eastern spices came to Mexico in the late 19th–early 20th centuries, mainly by Christians such as the Maronites who had no religious restrictions on eating pork.
In the 1920s in Puebla, lamb meat was replaced by pork. Then in Mexico City, they began to marinate the pork in adobo.
Since most of us do not have a trompo or “spinning top” braising the pork in the chile sauce, then finishing it on a grill is the next best way to prepare al pastor at home.
Spicy Pork Tacos (al Pastor)
Serves 6–8
Cook’s Illustrated
10 large dried guajillo chiles, wiped clean (New Mexico chiles can be substituted)
1-1/2 cups water
1-1/4 pounds plum tomatoes, cored and quartered
8 garlic cloves, peeled
4 bay leaves
Salt and pepper to taste
3/4 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
3 pounds boneless pork butt
1 lime, cut into 8 pieces
1/2 pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch thick rings
Vegetable oil
18 (6-inch) corn tortillas, warmed
1 small onion, chopped fine
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Toast guajillos in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until softened and fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a large plate and, when cool enough to handle, remove stems.
Bring toasted guajillos, water, tomatoes, garlic, cumin and cloves to simmer in the now-empty Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until guajillos are softened and tomatoes mash easily, about 20 minutes.
While sauce simmers, trim excess fat from exterior of pork, leaving 1/4-inch thick fat cap. Slice pork against the grain into 1/2-inch thick slabs.
Transfer guajillo-tomato mixture to blender and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Strain puree through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on solids to extract as much as possible. Return puree to pot, submerge pork slices in liquid, and bring to simmer over medium heat. Partially cover, reduce heat and gently simmer until pork is tender but still holds together, 90-105 minutes, flipping and rearranging pork halfway through cooking. (Pork can be left in sauce, cooled to room temperature and refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days.)
Transfer pork to a large plate, season on both sides with salt, and cover tightly with foil. Whisk sauce to combine. Transfer 1/2 cup to bowl for grilling; pour off all but 1/2 cup remaining sauce from the pot and reserve for another use. Squeeze 2 lime wedges into sauce in a pot and add spent wedges, season with salt to taste.
For a charcoal grill: open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour them evenly over the grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
For gas grill: turn all burners to high, cover and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Brush 1 side of pork with 1/4 cup reserved sauce. Place pork on 1 side of grill; sauce side down, and cook until well browned and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Brush pork with remaining 1/4 cup reserved sauce, flip and continue to cook until the second side is browned and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to the cutting board. Meanwhile, brush both sides of pineapple rings with vegetable oil and season with salt to taste. Place on the other half of the grill and cook until pineapple is softened and caramelized, 5 to 7 minutes per side; transfer pineapple to cutting board.
Coarsely chop grilled pineapple and transfer to a serving bowl. Using tongs or carving fork to steady hot pork, slice each piece crosswise into 1/8-inch pieces. Bring remaining 1/2 cup sauce in pot to simmer, add sliced pork, remove pot from heat, and toss to coat pork well. Season with salt to taste.
Spoon a small amount of pork into each warm tortilla and serve, passing chopped pineapple, remaining 6 lime wedges, onion and cilantro.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.