Let’s Talk Food: Chef Junior Ulep, a passionate chef

Photo courtesy Audrey Wilson Cooking with Chef Junior Ulep.
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Chef Junior Ulep grew up in the Waialua/Haleiwa area of the North Shore, Oahu. Both of his parents worked so Junior had to cook for his younger sisters. If meat was left out by his parents to thaw, Junior knew he had to cut it up and find vegetables in the garden to cook with the meat. This first experience in the kitchen had a lasting effect on the rest of his life.

Being competitive in sports, Junior started to play football for a junior college in Eureka California and then transferred to Ashland, Oregon. Working three jobs to be able to stay in college, Junior worked at Safeway as a produce clerk. There he was introduced to many different kinds of vegetables and fruits that he had never seen before. He also worked as a dishwasher at Winchester Inn. There he was fed for free and was exposed to fine dining. He was asked to go to the gardens and pick herbs for the chef. Soon he was asked to help the chef with minor chores.

Junior’s enthusiasm to learn came through and he is forever grateful to innkeepers Laurie and Michael Gibbs for allowing their dishwasher to learn the intricate aspects of putting a dinner together.

Junior majored in criminology as he wanted to be a role model in his community and help people. He even went on ride-along calls with the local police, but when he had idle time in the police car, he was writing down various menus for a dinner. But that did not click with Junior as he was determined to be a policeman or a fireman.

After graduating, Junior returned to Oahu and took the test to become an HPD police officer. While waiting for his second test, he was helping chefs with banquets and caterings.

Then the opportunity that changed the rest of his life occurred when he went to interview for a cook in Lanai. Junior was one of the 10 of 20 that were chosen. Off he went, to work with the likes of Chef Eric Leterc, (now the chef for The Pacific Club), Chef Edwin Goto, then executive chef for Koele Lodge, (now in Waimea and owner of Village Burger) and Chef Philippe Padovani, who was the executive chef at the Manele Bay Hotel.

This is the third time the island of Hawaii has called Junior back. He feels good when he is here as his Hawaiian grandmother is buried in Pahoa. Whenever he gets to the east side of the island, he tries, if time permits, to visit her grave.

Junior’s passion for cooking shows every time I talk to him. He talks about his humble beginnings, all that he learned from chefs like Ed Goto, Philippe Padovani, Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, and Sam Choy. He feels so fortunate to be able to be the chef de cuisine at the Meridia Mediterranean Restaurant at the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort. He talks about how grateful he is to Executive Chef Peter Abarcar, Jr. of Mauna Kea Resort, to Craig Anderson, the vice-president of operations at the hotel, and to Todd Oldham, Director of Food and Beverage.

So excited is Junior that he wants the locals to come over to the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort and dine at the Meridia! Right now there is a kama‘aina rate for the Westin Hapuna Resort and the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, which includes the resort fee and the free parking.

Here is a recipe for Spanish Romesco sauce from Chef Junior Ulep that is the sauce for their ahi dish. When oil is added, it loosens it up and becomes a vinaigrette, but is so versatile that it can be used on chicken, beef or lamb.

Spanish Romesco Sauce

Makes 1-1/2 cups

1 cup piquillo pepper, or 1 large roasted red bell pepper from a jar

1 garlic clove, smashed

1/2 cup roasted Marcona almonds or slivered almonds, toasted

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika

5 each fresh Hawaiian chili pepper

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Pulse first 8 ingredients in a food processor until very finely chopped. With motor running, slowly add oil, process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

Sauce can be made one week ahead. Cover and chill.

Junior Ulep would love to mentor the up and coming chefs and has some words of wisdom:

Have fun.

Be humble.

Have a passion for cooking.

You need to work your way up the hard way. You cannot become an executive chef overnight.

Foodie bites

Check out the Hawaii Community College’s Culinary program’s Cafeteria and short order menu on: http://hawaii.hawaii.edu/cafeteria

The Bamboo Hale is also open for fine dining. Call 808-934-2591 to make reservations. Leave your name and number, what day and the times you would like to reserve a table for: Tuesday-Thursday, and 11 a.m., 11:40 a.m., or 12:15 p.m. seating.