On our recent trip to Hiroshima, we went to a restaurant that specializes in making okonomiyaki in many different styles. We chose the seafood and the chicken okonomiyaki.
There are generally two styles of okonomiyaki: Hiroshima-style and Kansai-style. Hiroshima-style is layered like a giant omelet and often contains yakisoba on the inside, with a fried egg on top.
Kansai-style okonomiuaki is mixed together before being cooked like a pancake. Nagaimo, or “long potato” is the key ingredient in the Kansai-style, but if you don’t like the thick, slimy texture, like eating natto, or fermented soybeans, you may not like this style. When cooked through, the sliminess dissipates, and gives the inside a creamy, moist texture.
As okonomiyaki is a pancake, the Kansai-style is to limit the development of gluten in the batter.
It is important to miimize the mixing once liquids are added to the flour mixture. Once cooked, the pancake is doused with okonomiyaki sauce, Kewpie mayonnaise, green nori flakes or “aonori,” katsuoboshi of shaved bonito flakes, benishoga or red pickled ginger, and just like pizza, you can top it with whatever you like, such as cheese, mentaiko, or salmon.
Okonomiyaki became a popular dish during and after the war. The earliest sighting was back in the Edo period (1683-1868) where there was a special dessert served at Buddhist ceremonies called “funoyaki.” This then evolved during the Meiji period (1868-1912) into a sweeter dish called “sakesoyaki.” This dish continued to evolve in the 1920s and 1930s with emphasis on the sauces and the name became “yoshokuyaki.”
In Hiroshima, about that same time, a similar crepe-like dish was popular, topped with onions, folded over, and served to children as a snack. Okonomiyaki became more popular during the war when rice became scarce and residents had to be creative in using other more readily available ingredients. After the war, more ingredients such as eggs, pork, and cabbage were added.
A restaurant from Osaka claims to be the first to add mayonnaise in 1946.
So besides the Hiroshima and Kansei/Osaka style of okonomiyaki, there are other versions such as:
Negiyaki is similar to okonomiyaki, but instead of cabbage, there are only green onions, which makes it more similar to a Korean “pajeon” pancake.
Tokyo-style or Monjayaki is runnier and eaten directly off the grill using the okonomiyaki spatula. The main ingredients are grilled first, moved into a ring, and the batter is added to the middle.
Takoyaki is not really an okonomiyaki, but is similar and often served at the same restaurants. It is a batter with tako or octopus that is cooked int oa ball and served in a similar way, wht the same condiments. There is a vendor at the farmers market here in Hilo that makes takoyaki. A special round ball grill pan is needed to make takoyaki.
Okonomiyaki
Half a small cabbage
1-2 green onions, sliced thinly
2 tablespoons katsuoboshi
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup nagaimo
2 large eggs
1/2 cup dashi (made with dashi powder in 1/2 cup water)
9 slices bacon
Remove the core and tough parts of the cabbage, shred it. Set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the shredded cabbage, green onion, katsuboshi, flour, and toss with two large forks or with your fingers, to distribute everything evenly.
Peel nagaimo and grate into a separate bowl. You can also place it in a food processor.
Add eggs and dashi and whisk together until uniformly incorporated.
If you want to add other ingredients, this is the time to do it.
Pour egg mixture into the cabbage mixture, stir together until cabbage is moistened and there are no lumps of flour, but be careful notto overmix. It is okay to have some lumps.
Lay out bacon in a cold pan, overlapping slightly to account for shrinkage. If you are not using bacon, add a few teaspoons of vegetable oil to the pan.
Add one third of the cabbage mixture into a mound on top of the bacon. Press down on the mound using a spatula to flatten out the top, then push the edges to make a round pancake that is roughly the same thickness from edge to edge, about 3/4 inches thick.
Cover with a lid and cook until the bottom is well browned.
Flip the okonomiyaki or oil a second pan, then the second pan to cover the pancake and flip the pkonomuyaki into the second pan.
Press down the top of the okonomiyaki with a spatula and cook, uncovered until the second side is browned as well, about 7 minutes.
Slide the okonomiyaki out of the pan, top with okonomiyaki sauce, mayonnaise, aonori, katsuoboshi, and benishoga.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.