Sam Choy and Gay Wong were working on a cookbook about ‘ulu when Mutual Publishing’s editor, Gay Wong, suddenly passed away on Aug. 4, 2018.
“Sam would fly in from Kona weekly to meet with Gay to work on ‘ulu recipes and discuss its many nutritional qualities. Long after Mutual had closed for the day and everyone had gone home, Gay and Sam would still be huddled together discussing ‘ulu. After Gay’s passing it took time to get back to work on the book, while knowing that finishing the book was the best way to remember her, working on it could be sad, thinking of Gay, her ebullience, and her passion for ‘ulu.
“Gay fell in love with ‘ulu not just for its taste and diversity, but for all the nourishment this amazing fruit provides. Eating healthy, getting people to use nourishing food in their diet, was part of Gay’s mission in life. Without Gay, this book would not have come to life. Thank you, Gay, for taking us into the world of ‘ulu and sharing with us its amazing properties. We thought of you always as we finished what you started.”
Gay was also a dear friend to me as Mutual Publishing was also my publisher of my cookbooks.
She took me in and we could talk frankly about so many things. I miss you Gay, your kindness, you generosity, your laughter, and your love for food.
Gay passed away while she doing what she enjoyed, having dinner and entertaining.
The Hawai‘i ‘Ulu Cooperative was established in 2016 to increase supply and consumer awareness of the many benefits and consumer awareness of the many benefits ‘ulu has to offer.
As of 2022, the cooperative is owned by more than 127 farmer-members operating small, diverse farms across Hawaii Island, Maui and Oahu.
Members are guaranteed market and stable pricing as well as technical support to increase farmer capacity and invests in co-op stewardship and governance to strengthen farmers ability to lead the organization toward long-term success, according to Dana Shapiro, general manager of the co-op.
There are different stages of ‘ulu:
Immature or baby ‘ulu had the flavor and texture of artichoke hearts.
Mature ‘ulu has a more developed starch content, and has a taste similar to potatoes, Its texture is firm.
Ripe ‘ulu’s starches have converted to sugars and are similar to sweet potatoes or pumpkins. Its texture is soft.
Here are some recipes from the cookbook:
Ulu-Carrot Hummus
Serves 6
1 pound cubed mature ‘ulu, boiled until tender
(Boil quarters for 15 to 20 minutes, until a skewer or fork can be easily inserted)
2 cups peeled, roughly chopped carrots
2 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving
1/4 cup reserved ‘ulu cooking water
4 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons tahini
Salt and white pepper to taste
Heat oven to 400 degrees.
Place carrots and garlic on a baking sheet, rub with olive oil. Roast until fork tender, about 20 minutes. Cool.
In a blender combine ‘ulu, carrots, garlic, and reserved cooking liquid; puree on low speed. Add lemon juice, tahini, salt, and white pepper; blend until smooth. Taste and add more seasonings if needed.
Serve in a bowl with a layer of olive oil drizzled over the top to keep it moist. Serve with ‘ulu or taro chips.
‘Ulu Mac Salad
Serves 5
2 cups cubed mature ‘ulu, uncooked
2 cup elbow macaroni
1 medium onion, diced
1 cup mayonnaise
2 bunch cilantro, leaves only
4 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced
Salt and pepper to taste
Avocado slices, for garnish
Bring pot of water to a boil; add ‘ulu and pasta. Cook until both are tender, drain and cool.
Mix cooled ‘ulu and macaroni in bowl with onions and mayonnaise.
Fold in cilantro and egg slices. Taste and season with salt and pepper, Garnish with avocado.
Kung Pao-Style ‘Ulu
Serves 6
2 cups diced mature ‘ulu, steamed
1 medium head cauliflower
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 slices bacon, cut into 1/4 inch piece
6 Hawaiian chili peppers, minced
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
6 stalks green onions, cut into 1-inch slices
2 tablespoons ginger, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
Kosher salt, to taste
Marinade:
2 tablespoons Shaoxing (Chinese rice wine)
3 teaspoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon shoyu
Sauce:
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 teaspoons hoisin sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon shoyu, divided
1 cup vegetable stock
Cut cauliflower into florets and stems into 1-inch slices. Set aside.
Whisk marinade ingredients together in a large bowl; set aside. In a separate, smaller bowl, combine sauce ingredients; set aside.
Heat canola oil in skillet and saute ’ulu and cauliflower until lightly browned. Add to bowl with marinade; toss to coat.
Using the same skillet, cook bacon until crisp. Add chili pepper and peppercorns, stir-fry 30 seconds. Immediately transfer to a small bowl, leaving bacon dripping in skillet.
Scoop ‘ulu and cauliflower into the heated skillet, discarding marinade. Stir-fry for 5 minutes.
Then add bacon mixture, green onions, ginger, and garlic, toss. Add sauce to coat. Taste and add salt if needed.
Sam Choy’s “Ulu Cookbook, Hawai‘i’s Breadfruit Recipes by Sam Choy and Gay Wong with Hawai’i ‘Ulu Cooperative is available at Basically Books.
Foodie notes
The Hawaii Community College’s Culinary Program’s Cafeteria and Da ‘Ohana Cafe are open today through Thursday from 10:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m.
Call 808-934-2581 for Da Ohana Cafe and 808-934-2559 for The Cafeteria.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.