Let’s Talk Food: Japanese souffle pancakes

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Photo courtesy Audrey Wilson Hulisen 3-inch rings.
Photo courtesy Audrey Wilson Japanese soufflé pancake.
Photo courtesy Audrey Wilson Japanese soufflé pancakes in the pan.
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When I first ate a Japanese souffle pancake in Tokyo, I was so impressed by its lightness and delicate taste. But they are not a new item on the culinary scene, as the first form of pancakes appeared in the 16th century and was called “funo-yaki” and invented by Sen no Rikyu, the founder of the tea ceremony. The original Japanese pancake was made by mixing flour with water and sake and then fried and served with sweet miso paste for tea ceremonies.

Here’s an interesting bit: “Due to the influence of western countries, pancakes came back to popularity in 20th century Japan. The sweet dish has become popular, primarily through Hawaiian restaurants, with numerous restaurants in Japan that now offer the world-famous Japanese pancake,” according to the website Voypon.

The most famous restaurants serving this dish are Flippers, A Happy Pancake, Fram Cafe, and Micasadero &Cafe, which might be advertising their famous Fuwafuwa pancakes.

It wasn’t filling at all, which is pretty typical of most items you order in Japan, but it left a lasting impression on me.

I spent the rest of the afternoon looking for 3-inch rings to make them when I got home.

These pancakes are less sweet, leaving room to be creative with whipped cream and fresh fruits.

Cuisine magazine has this recipe for Japanese pancakes in their holiday 2021 issue. They noted that “It’s hard to fathom how pancakes can get better. These hot cakes are the answer. But what’s the deal behind them? They’re thick, yet fluffy, like a souffle-custardy on the inside and crispy golden on the outside. And they tower over the traditional stack.

“The batter is thick, similar to a souffle batter. The height comes from egg whites that have been whipped to stiff peaks. Along with the egg whites, there’s another key leavener: baking powder. All that leavening power causes the cakes to rise as they cook.

“But to get the best height and structure, you’ll want to use cake rings. They help the pancakes keep their shape, and aid in creating the lofty height, as they cook. You can make the rings without the rings but they’re not as impressive in the end.”

Fortunately, Amazon has the Hulisen 3-inch dessert mousse molds, if you are looking for rings to make Japanese souffle pancakes. They are $12.99 for four rings and come with a pusher and lifter, which would make things easier when trying to flip the pancake and then removing the ring when it is done cooking. It is noted as Amazon’s Choice.

On a side note, Hulisen started in 2016 making biscuit cutters and has been known for having one of the best cutters because of their high-quality products.

Japanese Pancakes

Makes 12 pancakes

Whisk together:

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Whisk together the wet ingredients:

1/2 cup whole milk

3 egg yolks

2 teaspoon almond extract

Whisk wet ingredients into the dry ingredients.

Beat:

5 egg whites, cold

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

Beat until the sugar dissolves, Increase speed to medium-high and continue beating egg whites until stiff peaks form. (Your pancakes may deflate if you over-beat or under-beat your egg whites. This stage is critical for that perfect pancake!).

Fold one-third of the meringue into the batter with a whisk until incorporated. Continue folding meringue, until all the meringue is incorporated.

Lightly coat the inside of four 3-inch x 1-3/4 inch cake rings with nonstick spray.

Lightly coat a nonstick skillet with vegetable oil; heat over medium-low. Place prepared rings in the skillet and fill each with 1/2 cup batter (each ring should be about halfway full). Add 2 teaspoons of water to the skillet, cover with a lid. (Chill batter, uncovered until the pancakes cook).

Cook pancakes until the batter rises to the tops of the rings and bottoms are golden, about 5 minutes. Grab one ring with tongs and slide a thin spatula under the ring to release the pancake and carefully flip; repeat with remaining rings and pancakes. Add another 2 teaspoons of water to the skillet, cover and cook pancakes until bottoms are golden, about 5 minutes more. Transfer pancakes to a plate and remove rings; repeat procedure with remaining batter. Serve with butter and syrup, or whipped cream and fresh sliced fruits.

Foodie bites

The Hawaii Community College’s Culinary Cafeteria and Da ‘Ohana Cafe served its last meal for the semester on Dec. 1 and will be reopening next semester in January. Thank you for supporting the culinary students and giving them the experience needed when they graduate into the real world.

Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.