Let’s Talk Food: All about canned tomatoes

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If you don’t have a recipe for a specific canned tomato, you could get very confused in the canned tomato aisle at the supermarket. That section takes up about one-third of the aisle and extends from the top to the bottom shelves, with so many types and brands of tomatoes.

If you don’t have a recipe for a specific canned tomato, you could get very confused in the canned tomato aisle at the supermarket. That section takes up about one-third of the aisle and extends from the top to the bottom shelves, with so many types and brands of tomatoes.

Crushed tomatoes:

• Seeds are left in, the tomatoes are macerated into small pieces. Crushed tomatoes are less chunky than diced tomatoes, but not as smooth as tomato puree.

Diced tomatoes:

• The skins of the tomato are removed, cooked briefly and packed in either its juices or tomato sauce.

Passata, or passata di pomodoro:

• Passata, or passata di pomodoro, is the Italian name for strained tomatoes. The seeds and skin are removed when strained, then either chopped or pureed.

Stewed tomatoes:

• Cooked and peeled, with the seeds left in. Stewed tomatoes could be large chunks or thick slices.

Tomato paste:

• A thick, concentrated tomato cooked for hours, strained of its seeds and skins, then further cooked to make it thick and remove a lot of water.

Tomato puree:

• Cooked, strained tomatoes that then are pureed. Tomato puree is less thick than tomato paste and unlike tomato sauce, has no other added ingredients.

Tomato sauce:

• Strained, pureed tomatoes with salt, sugar or other herbs and spices added. It might be the most common canned tomato product in your pantry as it is an important ingredient in chili, stews and many soups.

Whole tomatoes:

• Whole plum tomatoes have the skin removed and are packed in their juice. Whole tomatoes often are asked for in soups, with a long cooking time.

To make tomato sauce from paste:

Place one can tomato sauce in saucepan and simmer, stirring constantly, for seven minutes, until reduced to two-thirds and very thick.

To make tomato paste from canned tomatoes:

Blend one 14.5-ounce can of tomatoes in blender, puree until smooth. Place in saucepan and boil over medium heat, stirring constantly for 8-10 minutes, until reduced two-thirds.

Now that you understand all the different varieties, it is time to cook them.

Linguine with Tomato Clam Sauce

Serves: 4

3 dozen littleneck or cherrystone clams, scrubbed (discard any clams that are broken or do not clamp shut when tapped)

In a large saucepan, combine clams with:

3/4 cup dry white wine

Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, just until the clams begin to open, about three minutes. Remove the open clams and continue to cook, uncovering the pot as necessary to remove the clams as soon as their shells open. Discard those clams that do not open.

When cool enough to handle, remove two dozen clams from their shells, over the pan to keep all the juices. Set the unshelled clams aside separately. Pour the broth through a sieve lined with a paper towel.

In a deep frying pan, heat over moderate heat:

1/4 cup olive oil

Add and cook until softened, about one minute:

6 cloves garlic, cut into thin slices

Add the strained liquid, and:

3 1/2 cups canned whole tomatoes in puree (28 ounce can), chopped

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Boil the sauce over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Stir in:

4 tablespoons chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley

In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook until just done, 12 minutes:

3/4 pound dry linguine

Drain, and return pasta to pot. Add the sauce and shelled clams and toss, taste and add more salt if needed. Top with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley.

One of my husband Jim’s favorites is this cassoulet. We have had delicious cassoulet in Paris and he tries hard to duplicate this dish as he remembers it while we were there.

Cassoulet

Serves: 10

Put in a large saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by at least 1 inch 2 cups of Great Northern white beans, rinsed and picked over.

Bring to boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 45 minutes, drain.

Reheat oven to 375 degrees. In a large, oven-proof heavy pot, add:

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 strips bacon, chopped

10 ounces well-trimmed boneless pork loin, cut into1-inch pieces

10 ounces well-trimmed boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound smoked chicken or turkey sausage, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 large celery rib, cut into 1/2-inch dice

Cook until meats are cooked and vegetables are tender, with the onions turning a golden color.

Add:

Beans

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can chicken broth

8 garlic cloves, chopped

1 bay leaf

6 whole peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with their juices

Be sure there is enough liquid to cover all ingredients by 1 inch, add more broth or water if needed.

Bring to a boil on top of the stove. Cover and place in oven and cook for 1 1/2 hours, or until the beans are tender. Check the pot form time to time during cooking to make sure there is enough liquid left. Add additional broth or water is necessary.

Email me at audreywilson808@gmail.com if you have questions.