Let’s Talk Food: Kudzu starch, Japanese wild arrowroot

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Kudzu or kuzu starch originally was used in China more than 2,000 years ago for its medicinal qualities, and as a thickener for more than 1,000 years.

Kudzu or kuzu starch originally was used in China more than 2,000 years ago for its medicinal qualities, and as a thickener for more than 1,000 years.

As a natural medicine, it is used to treat minor digestive problems and calm nerves. High in the flavonoid pueranin, it supposedly reduces high blood pressure, regulates blood sugar, increases blood circulation in the heart and brain, relieves chronic migraines and eases muscular tension.

Research on lab animals at Harvard Medical School suggests a drug extracted from the kudzu root might help in the treatment of alcoholism.

As an ingredient in cooking, it serves as a transparent, low-calorie thickener for sauces, gravies and soups. Dusted on vegetables and fish, then fried, it creates a light, crispy coating. It also balances the acidity in some sweets,

Since it is a legume, it replaces nitrogen into the soil. The leaves are eaten by animals and the fiber, ko-hemp, can be made into clothing and paper.

During World War II, kudzu was planted in Vanuatu and Fiji by U.S. Armed Forces to serve as camouflage.

The roots of the kudzu are among the largest in the world, often weighing in at 200 to 400 pounds. Wild kudzu roots are harvested when the sap forms in the root, carried down from the mountains, cleaned, hand-cut into chunks, then crushed into fibers.

These fibers are soaked, rinsed and a paste is formed. The paste is washed repeatedly in cold mountain spring water until it becomes a pure white starch. This starch is allowed to dry for 90 days, then is crushed into small chunks.

The process is simple, unlike that of making cornstarch, which is highly processed and bleached.

What is interesting is that as straight-forward a process as making kudzu starch is, it is very expensive.

Several easy dishes can be made from kudzu starch, sesame “tofu” and “mochi.”

Gomadofu

Sesame tofu

In a small bowl, allow to sit for one hour:

2 cups water

2-inch piece dashi-kombu

Discard dashi-kombu, or save for another use.

In a medium saucepan, mix together:

2 cups dashi water from above

1/2 cup kudzu starch

1/3 cup tahini (sesame seed paste)*

1 tablespoon sake (rice wine)

On medium heat, cook, stirring constantly for 15 minutes, until smooth and thickened. Pour into glass loaf pan and refrigerate until set.

Cut into 12 equal squares, serve with a variety of toppings such as tsukudani or katsuo-bashi (shaved bonito flakes).

Homemade Tahini

In a heavy (cast iron) skillet, on medium heat, toast till very light brown and fragrant, about five minutes:

1 cup white sesame seeds

Allow to cool.

Place in food processor:

Toasted sesame seeds

Grind in food processor until crumbly paste.

Slowly add:

2 tablespoons very mild olive oil or grapeseed oil

Process for two minutes. For thinner tahini, add more oil.

Add:

Pinch salt

Kudzu Mochi

In a medium saucepan, mix together:

3 1/2 ounce (1 cup) kudzu powder

1/2 cup cold water

Stir to dissolve.

Add:

2 cups plus 2 tablespoon cold water

1/4 cup sugar

Cook until mixture is translucent and thickened, about 15 minutes.

Pour into glass loaf pan, allow to cool. You can place pan in iced water to cool rapidly. Remove from pan into a sheet of parchment that has been sprinkled with:

2 tablespoons kinako (toasted soybean flour)

Place on plate, top with:

Red bean paste (koshi-an or trubushi-an)

Heavy whipping cream

Small bites

I usually promote local products, but in this case I would rather purchase the kudzu starch and do not wish to have these vines in Hawaii.

Although it has many benefits and was brought in by a government agency to control soil erosion, it has taken over many parts of Southeastern states. Kudzu is a perennial, fibrous vine that is an invasive and noxious weed.

Similar to “kukai-maile” it climbs on trees and shrubs, growing rapidly and eventually killing off other plants. Native to Asia, it was brought to the United States in 1876. Spread by runners and seeds, it soon took over many parts of the country.

Kudzu vines grow at such a rapid rate and take over 150,000 acres annually, which translates to more than 7 million acres. In addition, our economy losses $100 to $150 million per year in forest productivity.

Let’s not have another albizia situation.

Foodie bites: Mirin update

Thank you, Peter Epperson, for the email about mirin.

Peter said the mirin we buy at the markets is not really the real mirin, or sweet sake.

I checked my bottle of Kikkoman Kotteri Mirin. It says “Mirin Style Sweet Cooking Seasoning,” which means it is not made of sake. The ingredients listed are corn syrup, high fructose corn syrup, water, fermented rice seasoning, vinegar, sodium benzoate, contains sulfites.

I went to Kadota Liquor and purchased two brands, Takara Masamune Mirin, sweet sake for cooking, and Shirakiku Original Mirin. The tastes are definitely that of sake, with a hint of sweetness. I cooked with the “real” thing and can see the difference.

If you are a purist, switch to the mirin that has real sake.

Email me at audreywilson808@gmail.com if you have questions.