LET’S TALK FOOD: Local kurobuta is ono

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I always like to support local farmers.

I always like to support local farmers.

They work seven days a week, in the hot sun or rain, and oftentimes just make ends meet. But their love for their land and animals keeps them going.

One such person is Lloyd Case of Hawai’i Hogs in Waimea. Talking to Lloyd about his kurobuta, or Berkshire Heritage pigs, and his pride in his pampered livestock, you know he has a passion for what he does.

He scratches the back of their ears and makes sure his pigs have no stress.

Case raises about 600 Berkshire Heritage pigs and traps, worms and raises about 400 wild boar. He feeds them macadamia nuts and fruits as his philosophy that whatever you feed them has a direct influence of the taste of their meat.

Raising pigs has been part of Case’s family tradition. His father was a veterinarian and the family raised pigs from 1930-60. Case chose another line of work, in construction, but in retirement went back to the family business of raising pigs.

He understands the proper method to raise his animals and what it takes to produce what is, in his mind, “the perfect pork.”

The Japanese discovered the tender, juicy and flavorful Berkshire Heritage, and the name “kurobuta,” which translates to “black pig,” is currently very commonly used in labels.

So, what is so wonderful about kurobuta, you might ask?

One taste and you will be sold.

The National Barrow Show Sire Test rates the Berkshire Heritage in meat quality as having better water holding capacity and a higher degree of tenderness. The loin firmness attributes to the very tender meat and because consumers prefer the darker colored meat the Berkshire possesses, it makes it a very favorable breed to raise.

When cooked, the loin quality scored high points for intramuscular fat percent, tenderness and juiciness.

I had a kurobuta rib chop and belly pork to “play” with. I simply fried the rib chop in some olive oil, first seasoning it with kosher salt and black pepper. We took the first bite and could not help but say “wow” and then continued to say “wow” with each bite we took. Our taste buds are now “jaded” to the juiciness and flavor of Berkshire Heritage pigs.

Making your own bacon with the very meaty belly pork is simple. I coated the entire belly pork with a mixture of kosher salt and brown sugar, placed it in a plastic bag and left in the refrigerator for seven days. When you make your own bacon, you know what ingredients are used to make it (without nitrites) and the finished product is worth it.

On the day I was at KTA Super Stores, Puainako Store, talking to meat buyer Jeff Ikeda where the kurobuta section is, a customer held the package of kurobuta and started to tell us he bought a pork chop marked “kurobuta,” and after cooking and eating it, called his friend in Kona to please go to KTA to purchase this wonderful pork chop labeled “kurobuta.” His friend told him, “Pork chop is pork chop,” but this man said “no, this pork chop is delicious!”

He was preaching to the choir as Jeff and I know how wonderful the kurobuta tastes. He ordered a 1-inch cut pork chop, which Jeff said the butchers would be happy to get it for him. An order of kurobuta whole pig was coming in the afternoon.

The Berkshire Heritage kurobuta and Case’s wild boar are presently being carried by Kulana Foods.

KTA Super Stores butchers cut the carcass into a variety of cuts. On the day I was there, I saw pork shoulder, center cut, pork leg shoulder, pork shoulder roast, belly pork and pig’s feet.

Small bites

Berkshire Heritage pigs are a rare breed, originating in the English county of Berkshire. It is rumored Oliver Cromwell discovered this breed about 300 years ago and the first pig was called “Ace of Spades.”

They are black with white legs, face and tail, and have pink skin. This variety of pig is muscular and firm with a short neck and short, stocky legs. When the Berkshire Heritage pigs are ready for slaughter, they weigh in at about 600 pounds.

Foodie bites

The Big Island Lilikoi Festival is slated for Saturday, Oct. 25, at Nani Mau Gardens. For more information, check out www.lilikoifestival.com/.

Please feel free to email me at audreywilson808@gmail.com if you have questions.