Mari Levine, associate editor of web editorial for America’s Test Kitchen, belongs to a book club and confesses the group is more interested in getting together to eat then talk about a book. They usually start off by talking about their latest cooking and dining adventures before getting to their main purpose, discussing a book.
At one of her book club meetings, Levine brought this smoky-sweet, spreadable bacon jam that she created after being inspired by a Brooklyn, N.Y.-based bacon marmalade. She claims it is amazing on a burger, BLT sandwich or paired with stinky cheese. Levine says she is hooked on this jam because of its flavors and spreadable texture.
Here is the recipes, including all of her comments:
Bacon Jam
Makes: 1 1/2 cups
Add to Dutch oven and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 20 minutes:
1 pound thick-cut smoked bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
“Let it fry: Allowing the bacon to properly crisp before transferring it to a paper towel-lined plate is the first step — and a difficult one for me since I am not a patient cook. It can take almost 20 minutes to crisp up because there is so much of it. To keep myself from removing the bacon from the pot prematurely, I slice the onion, garlic and shallots while the bacon cooks. It’s an efficient use of time, and it keeps my hands busy so they don’t touch the bacon before they should.”
Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel-lined plate, leaving rendered fat in pot.
Return pot to medium heat, add:
1 large onion, halved and sliced thin
1 shallot, minced
5 garlic cloves, minced
Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 10 minutes.
“Put the fat to work: Once the crisped bacon is set aside, the rendered fat left in the pot serves two purposes beyond being a cooking oil. First, it boosts the bacon flavor. Second, it gives the final jam a smooth, almost creamy consistency. So into the pot go the onion, garlic and shallot, which I cook in the fat until they’re softened.”
Return bacon to pot, then stir in:
3/4 cup brewed coffee
1/2 cup water
1/3 cup cider vinegar
1/3 cup maple syrup
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon chili powder
Bring to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, until mixture thickens and rubber spatula or wooden spoon leaves distinct trail when dragged across bottom of pot, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
“Cook it down: Once the onions have softened, return the crisped bacon to the pot and add the liquids and sweeteners — coffee, water, vinegar, maple syrup and honey — plus allspice and chili powder for some smoky, warm depth. This recipe takes a couple of hours to prepare, but the bulk of that happens here, waiting for the mixture to cook down to a glazy, jammy consistency. The mixture will thicken and start to darken in color. I know it’s just about ready to puree when the rubber spatula I’m using to stir the pot leaves a distinct trail.”
Remove from heat and let bacon mixture cool for 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mixture to a food processor, leaving excess fat behind. Discard excess fat. Pulse bacon mixture until finely chopped, about 5 pulses, or until mixture has reach desired consistency. Transfer jam to jar with tight-fitting lid. Jam can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. Bring jam to room temperature before using.
“Keep some fat, lost the rest: Simmering the ingredients in the rendered bacon fat infuses them with meaty flavor, but pureeing the whole mixture would make the jam overly greasy. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon mixture to a food processor. Let the mixture drain pretty well before you put it in the food processor; it should just be glistening with fat but not swimming in the stuff. Some fat will still make it to the processor workbowl, but that’s what you want; it is key to have a little in there to get the right texture once the jam is pureed.”
Foodie bites
• Hawaii Community College’s Culinary Program is back from spring break this week and the foods of Italy and the European standard menu will be featured today through Friday. Call 934-2591 for reservations from 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m.
• The Rotary Club of South Hilo’s Hilo Huli is Sunday, May 7, at Mokuola Island (Coconut Island) from 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Members Wana Agasa, Pat Aiona Sr. and Pat Aiona Jr. of Aiona Car Sales, Irene Bender and Nathan Chang will be happy to sell you tickets. Akmal’s Indian Kitchen and Hawaii Lassi will prepare Lamb Curry with Biryani Rice and Mango, Coconut, Lilikoi and Strawberry Lassi; Waiakea Inc. will have available its bottled water; Sweet Cane Café will make slushees from fresh-pressed cane juice and fruit; and Grand Naniloa Hotel will serve Porchetta Sandwiches with Homemade Grainy Mustard.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.
