On Aug. 24, a 6.2-magnitude earthquake hit the little town of Amatrice in central Italy. It is located in the mountains bordering Abruzzo and about 65 miles from Rome. Various records show there were only between 2,000 to 2,680 residents there. The earthquake destroyed almost all of the historic town, except the iconic Amatrice clock tower, which withstood the shaking.
Mayor Sergio Pirozzi vowed to rebuild, saying, “I’m teetering, but I won’t give up.”
In addition, the Italian government approved $56 million to help the town rebuild.
Amatrice is most famous among foodies for pasta all’amatriciana. There would have been a 50th annual
Sagra degli Spaghetti
all’Amatriciana on Aug. 28, had the village not been devastated.
Pasta all’amatriciana is a simple dish and can be made at home, to honor this town, but these are the essentials of making it correctly:
• In Amatrice, guanciale is used, which is cured pork cheeks and jowls. Bacon is not used. We are not able to get guanciale in Hilo, so you can use pancetta.
• The guanciale is sauteed in lard and not olive oil. However, I make it with olive oil.
• When the guanciale is browned, a splash of white wine helps remove any wonderful brown specks left in the pan.
• In Amatrice, spaghetti is used to make pasta all’americiana; in Rome, bucatini (larger, hollow-centered pasta) is the pasta of choice.
• Pasta is always cooked in salted water, drained when just al dente and then finished in the pan with the sauce. It is an important step to have the pasta absorb the sauce.
• In Amatrice, their local cheese is pecorino, not pecorino romano, which is too salty, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is from the Parma area.
Pasta
all’amatriciana
Serves: 4
Heat in a heavy skillet over medium heat:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Add:
4 ounces thinly sliced guanciale or pancetta
Cook until crispy, about 8 minutes.
Add:
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3/4 cup onion, minced
Cook until onions are soft, then add:
1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano peeled tomatoes with juices, crushed by hand
Cook until the sauce has thickened, about 20 minutes.
Cook in salted boiling water until al dente, eight minutes:
12 ounces spaghetti
In a medium skillet, add:
1/2 cup pasta water
Cooked pasta
Enough sauce to coat pasta
Cook until heated through, about one to two minutes. Serve on platter or individual pasta bowls, grate pecorino cheese on top.
Small bites
Speaking of earthquakes, you don’t hear much about it but sections of South Korea are having aftershocks every 30 minutes after a 5.4 earthquake. The reason not much is said about it is because scientists think the lands are now unstable because of the nuclear tests in North Korea. The blast released some pressure in the earth and created continual earthquakes.
Our son, Neil, is in Gyeongju, South Korea, where the epicenter is located. When aftershocks were occurring every few minutes, Neil could not sleep. After a few days, the aftershocks were occurring every 30 minutes and although it was difficult to rest peacefully, Neil was able to get some sleep. The local press there said there were an estimated 147 aftershocks within a 24-hour period.
In Korea, Neil said kimchi is served with all three meals. This fermented food is a very important component of the various side dishes served with rice. Here is a recipe for won bok kimchi from my girlfriend Joan Namkoong’s cookbook, “A Korean Kitchen.”
Won bok kimchi
Makes: About 1 quart
Remove outer leaves of:
One head won bok, about 2 pounds
Cut won bok crosswise in 2-inch pieces. Place won bok in a large bowl, sprinkle with salt and toss together. Let stand for four hours or until won bok is wilted and has lost some of its crunchiness.
Drain the won bok in a colander and rinse, tossing well under the water to remove the salt. Drain and return won bok to a large bowl.
Add to the bowl and mix well:
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon finely minced ginger
1/4 cup green onions, about 2 stalks
2 tablespoons kochukaru (chili pepper powder)
1 tablespoon fish sauce
Pack kimchi into a jar and cover. Let stand on kitchen countertop for a day before refrigerating. If you want your kimchi to sour quickly, do not refrigerate it — leave it on the counter.
Within a couple of days, the kimchi will turn sour.
Foodie bites
• Hawaii Community College’s Culinary Program Cafeteria is open today through Friday. Call 934-2559 for more information and take-out orders.
• Hawaii Island Chamber of Commerce’s Business After Hours was recently hosted by HCC for attendees to meet Rachel Solemsaas, the college’s new chancellor. The event showcased the Hawaiian studies program with a “chicken skin” performance, and the food was catered by the Culinary Department under the leadership of chef instructor Brian Hirata.
• This Friday is the Rotary Club of Hilo Bay’s Oktoberfest at Hilo Hongwanji Betsuin Sangha Hall. Dress in your lederhosen and dirndl and partake in the festivities.
• Get your tickets for the Japanese Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Hawaii’s Taste of Hilo slated for Oct. 16 by calling 934-0177. Pre-sale tickets are $50. The price is $65 at the door (if they are still available). The event is scheduled for 1-3 p.m. at the Honpa Hongwanji Hilo Betsuin Sangha Hall.
Email me at audrey
wilson808@gmail.com.
