On returning from New Zealand after a month of exploring, it was difficult not to compare it with Hawaii.
Many plants that thrive there also do well here. Their famous native Pohutukawa or Metrosideros excelsa is closely related to our Ohia or Metrosideros polymorpha. Their native forests abound with tree ferns much like our Hapu‘u. Culturally, the European presence combined with the Polynesian Maori has created a society somewhat similar to Hawaii at least superficially. Their kia ora is a bit like our aloha as a word used for greeting, but aloha seems to encompass a much deeper and spiritual meaning. How ever it is expressed, we were constantly aware of the warm and friendly manner of New Zealanders that reflected our concept of aloha. Kiwi and Maori are super friendly. By the way, depending on with whom you talk, some Maori consider themselves Kiwi and some make the distinction that they are Maori and the term Kiwi refers to folks with a European background.
The obvious differences when it comes to New Zealand parks, gardens and roadsides is that there was little or no litter, no homeless folks and towns whether they be little or big were spotlessly clean. The same held true in the countryside. Native forests have been reduced to twenty five percent of pre-Maori times, but major efforts to reforest with both native and commercial forests is well underway. Sheep and dairy cows pastures take up the remaining open space. Some scenery is like Kohala or Waimea and some is reminiscent of England or southern Scotland.
The northern part of North Island is as close to tropical as it gets, but too cool to grow coconut palms. We liked the area referred to as the Bay of Islands. The little village of Russell with its infamous hotel, the Duke of Marlborough was like stepping in to the past. Back in the days of whalers and pirates, Russell was known as the Hell Hole of the South Pacific. Hotels were actually brothels and lawlessness was the game. Today it is a sleepy little village that might have been pictured in a Norman Rockwell painting.
When it comes to gardens, New Zealanders make use of many native plants like the Nikau palm, New Zealand flax and the cabbage tree. These are mixed with hydrangeas, camellias and roses.
Last year we were impressed with all the beautiful roses growing in England and Scotland, but Auckland’s roses are impressive as well. New Zealand’s mild climate is ideal for roses and since it is early fall while we have our spring in the Northern hemisphere, we saw them in full glory. In Hawaii, growing roses is always a rewarding challenge to the gardener. Roses are cool climate plants that do best at elevations of 1,000 feet or more. At lower elevations, insects and disease problems are aggravated. At best, roses require specific care or they will not do well. If you want to try roses in Hawaii, here are some tips.
Roses come in two main classes, dormant and container grown. The dormant rose plants are usually shipped in from the Mainland in the early spring. Container grown plants are available after the nurseryman has given them a good start. Rootstocks vary, but research in Hawaii suggests that roses grown on Rosa fortuniana rootstock are best for low elevations. Other rootstocks used are Dr. Huey, manetti and multiflora.
Plant roses for cut flowers in a separate bed because they must be pruned properly, covered most of the time with protective fungicides, and denuded of old flowers. Select a site in a sunny location. In the event the bed is located near large plants, protect the rose bushes from marauding roots with a sheet of metal roofing buried vertically along the side of the bed.
Prepare the planting site prior to securing the rose bushes. If the soil is sandy or rocky, remove it to a depth of 15 inches and replace with compost of well rotted leaves, aged manure, peat moss and soil. For best growth, be sure the replaced material is on the acid side. Roses do better in soils that have a generous amount of organic matter.
Be sure the planting holes are large enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. In the bottom of each hole, drop a handful of garden fertilizer. Dip the roots of each plant in a bucket of water just before planting. Install the new bush so that the root system will stand at the same level that it stood in the nursery container.
Keep an eye out for diseases such as black spot, brown canker, and powdery mildew. Insect pests that may harm the bushes will include aphids, thrips, cottony-cushion scale, red spider mites, and assorted night feeding rose beetles.
Your garden supply store has specific insecticides and fungicides available. These will need to be applied on a regular program. Garden shops also have fertilizers labeled as “Rose Food.” These should be applied as directed on the container.
Since roses require continuous feeding and pest control, they are placed in the high maintenance category, high, at least, when compared to the care required by the average flowering shrubs. The requirements also include regular grooming or removing unwanted or unsightly parts from rose plants to improve their growth and appearance. Preventing fruit development is one of the reasons for grooming the rose plant after each main period of flowering. If left on the plant, the base to which the petals are attached will usually enlarge, forming a small apple like fruit called a rose hip. By removing the faded flowers, energy needed to form the fruit can be diverted to production of additional flowering growth.
At the same time that spent flowers are being removed, the bush should be inspected for the presence of any dead wood that can serve as a reservoir for parasitic organisms that cause dieback of rose canes. Dead wood should be cut from the plant whenever it is found. Also, any shoots developing from the rootstock below the graft union should be removed.
Grooming, pest control and fertilization are time consuming practices, but your plants will respond by giving you loads of flowers in return.
